Monday, July 31, 2006

forbidden pla photos

We passed a People's Liberation Army base in our travels in Yunnan Province on June 13th at 9:30 a.m. Rest assured that I did not take these photos. I just received these and I will not reveal my source. I am not a spy but merely exercising in this blog the freedom of the press rights granted to me by the First Admendment to the U.S. Constitution.

If you or any of your pinko godless commie friends don't like it
. . . too bad.

Be blessed!
RB

Thursday, July 13, 2006

a lazy summer

I returned from China two weeks ago today. I have not really accomplished much except to catch up with a lot reading that piled up during my absence. At first, I attributed my low productivity to jet lag. A more likely explanation, for at least the past few days, is just plain old laziness. You know what? It does not bother me one bit.

I sometimes, but not too often, wonder if my lack of concern with my lackadaisicalness is due to ignorance or apathy. Well, I don’t know and I don’t care.

I have been reflecting on a number of things for which I am quite grateful. I have a wonderful family. My youngest really did a great job of taking care of things while I was gone. I live in a good neighborhood in wonderful village. I love my job and I am grateful for my employer. I have no material lack.

I had a fabulous four-week trip to China. Twenty-plus years ago when we were in Nigeria, we had to wait two weeks for mail. Even the issues of Newsweek I purchased were at least two weeks old. A five-minute telephone call to the States from a call center cost $15. In China, I had internet access available in the hotels and in internet cafes. I felt connected by emails, especially by my daily email from xanga with updates to the blogs to which I subscribe. CFC’s Prayer-Alerts also kept me informed and feeling connected. Although this news usually was not so good, at least being halfway around the world did not stop me from praying, let alone reduce the effectiveness of my prayers.

While I am also grateful for the ease of phoning the USA, the calls did not really help me feel connected. Maybe it is because I am not very good on the phone, but for some reason the calls made me even more aware of my great distance from home.

"Somebody misses her Granddad" was the caption on this cute picture. I'm grateful for the the post although it made me miss a certain young family even more.

There is no better place to be during the summer than the North Country. Please remember that on the few days this month when the temperatures rise into the 90’s.

Be blessed!
RB

Friday, June 30, 2006

sino journal nine: the trip completed.

Wednesday June 28th and Thursday June 29th. The weather was warm and muggy when I left the apartment at a little after 6 a.m. After climbing down five floors of stairs, I rolled my suitcases a couple of blocks to a major intersection to hail a taxi. It is a whole lot easier to hail a taxi when you know the Chinese term for airport (pronounced fay gee chang). I had saved a set of fresh, clean clothes for the trip home. Now I was already dripping in sweat. By 11 a.m. I had completed my trip from Chengdu to Shanghai, collected my bags, and had to wait a mere seven hours until my United Airlines flight departed to Chicago.

Check in started at 3 p.m. I got in line at 2 p.m. in order to try for an emergency row seat. Even though I was one of the first to check in, I had to settle for an aisle seat. That was fine. I can always stretch one leg out in the aisle and trip the flight attendants. Such entertainment makes a 13½-hour flight go faster.

The flight left on time at 6 p.m. and I changed my watch to 6 a.m. Psychologically this helps me adjust to the new time zone. Instead of traveling through the night, I try to stay awake by thinking I’m traveling during the day. An uneventful flight. I only slept maybe an hour or an hour and a half.

After a month of trying to drink coffee in a nation of tea drinkers, I was very excited that on this flight, United served Starbucks coffee. How could it get any better?

It was the worst coffee I have ever had. By comparison, this airline-version Starbucks made coffee from a Chinese vending machine taste like something Paul Brown at his best would brew.

At Chicago, customs and immigration went smoothly. My flight to Syracuse was delayed twice, ultimately leaving and arriving 2½ to 3 hours late. Sue picked me up at the airport and by the time we left I-81 we were both hungry. So we stopped at the Longways diner for breakfast. We pulled into Canton about 6 a.m., just as the sun was rising.

36 hours of travel, 12 of it waiting in airports. Jet lagged. I will not be operating any heavy machinery for the next few days.

Thursday night I woke up out of a very sound sleep, in a dark room, not knowing where I was. I somehow realized a cat had walked across the bed. Funny, I don’t remember any cats in China. I got up to go to the bathroom. It looked somewhat familiar. The floor tiles weren’t a square foot each, but very much smaller. Strange, very strange. As I walked back down the hall to return to bed, I had a vague inkling that maybe I wasn’t in China anymore.

more chengdu photos

Chengdu II

sino journal eight: return to chengdu

I have posted some pictures from my stay in Kunming and I will post some more from Chengdu. The photos are pretty much devoid of people since certain folks wish to remain in the background and not have their photographs published. I also need to be careful revealing identities in the latest blogs about Kunming and Chengdu. Thank you for understanding.

Thursday June 22nd. I flew from Kunming arriving at Chengdu about noon. I am staying in an extra bedroom of an apartment rented by a New Yorker. He is here to study Chinese. His apartment is in a nice complex where many government and party officials live. I had lunch in a nice, nearby restaurant with a family and two sisters from Southeast Asia. I was told I needed to have my notes for Monday’s talk emailed to our contact at a local university. The translators wanted to look it over before my talk. No hurry but this afternoon would be fine, maybe tomorrow morning at the latest. This presented a problem for me since I had neither notes nor topic. I also needed to know the audience for the talk and what level to pitch it. All I had to go on was that the faculty member was a materials engineer and the audience would most likely be his students.

I planned to spend the afternoon and evening preparing my notes. However, I was totally wiped out and slept several hours in the afternoon. In the evening, I got a little done but was still tired and retired early. No problem, with a long afternoon nap I would probably wake up in the middle of the night and would not be able to sleep. What a perfect time to work on my notes.

I slept another nine hours, straight through the night.

Friday June 23rd. I did finish my notes by late morning and emailed them to my university contact. My American host had his final exam and returned late in the afternoon. I felt led to make the evening a night devoted to just him. To celebrate I took him out to his favorite restaurant, a Tex-Mex place, where he could have all his favorite dishes. The food was quite good and they had milkshakes that were among the best I have ever had anywhere. We had a wonderful talk, very good, deep sharing. We also ate too much, running the bill up to 82 rmb. This is really quite expensive for two people, but then how often do two New Yorkers in China get to celebrate the end of a semester together? (The bill worked out to be about US$10.). We went back to his flat and watched one of his favorite American movies, The Patriot with Mel Gibson.

Saturday June 24th. I was to speak at a once-a-month English Corner held in a family’s apartment. I decided to speak on The Richest Man who Ever Lived. There were to be many nonbelievers there and I thought it would not be too explicitly Christian (2,900 year old wisdom from an ancient Jewish king). There were over forty people crammed into the apartment. I think it went well but turned out to be more explicitly Christian than my hosts expected. However, everyone knew the hosts were Christians and no one was shocked or surprised at my content. People were there not just for the chance to speak English but also because they were interested in Christianity.

Sunday June 25th. We went to an international fellowship this morning in a luxury apartment – the nicest apartment in which I have ever been. All ex-pats, mostly American but a sizable minority of Southeast Asians. I spent the afternoon revising my notes for Monday’s talk. At Saturday’s English Corner, I met the young faculty member who is bringing me to campus. He wanted more “depth.” He is a young economist and I would be speaking to economics faculty and students. Opps!

The sole purpose of my talk is to build up and give credibility to this brother who is starting out his career as an economist. Being the one to know and invite a Western scholar to campus could really boost his prestige here. So I needed to beef up my presentation. (I was to speak at other universities but they are having, or have had, their final exams.)

In the evening, I was to have dinner with a couple whose daughter just returned from high school in Australia. They want my advice about choosing her major. I am not looking forward to this. In the states, this usually means the kid wants to do a major the parents, usually the father, does not like. I am brought in as the reasonable outsider who is expected to agree with the parents. Problems will arise if I don’t.

Dinner was at the home of a Christian family. The hostess was an outgoing Southeast Asian. (Imagine someone with the best qualities of Judy Tomford combined with the best of Sandy Colbert.) It turned out to be an absolutely wonderful evening. The 17-year-old was a great kid, loved and admired by her parents, and she loved and admired the parents. She became a Christian in Australia and her parents were extremely and openly interested in Christianity. Daughter and parents were perfectly charming people.

Students must select a major when applying to university and the father was completely open to supporting his daughter’s decision. He just wanted her to make the best decision possible.

This was not a typical or traditional Chinese family. The mother told a story of how years ago her daughter’s teacher came to visit her to discuss the child’s progress. The mother told the teacher her priorities were first, her daughter’s happiness, second, her daughter’s character, and third, her daughter’s education. This is exactly the reverse of the typical priorities of Chinese parents. You cannot believe the pressure Chinese kids are under to perform well in school. However, here I was sitting next to this well adjusted, happy 17-year-old who seems to have it all together – at least as far as any 17-year-old reasonably can have it altogether.

Later that evening I emailed my revised notes and emailed them to the young economist.

Monday June 26th. Another hot and muggy day in Chengdu. I spent the morning resting so I would be fresh for the talk at a local university. It turns out I'm the first foreign scholar to ever speak here. Since the purpose was to build up and give some credibility to the young economist who invited me, I wore a long-sleeve shirt and tie despite the weather. (I need constantly to remind myself that this is not about me, thank you very much.)

A car came by to pick me up at about 3 p.m. My American host and two Southeast Asian sisters also were to go to the talk to translate if need be and to otherwise intercede. I took my laptop to read my notes because I could not find a printer. I went into the lecture hall with the young economist, my three friends, two translators, and the dean of the business administration and economics faculty. There were about 100 people and it was SRO.

I opened my laptop and had the document loaded to read when I discovered I left my glasses back at the flat. This is my fourth week in China and I had never been more than ten feet away from my glasses at any time. Try as I might, I could not read the laptop screen. I tried enlarging but I needed glasses to click the right amount to enlarge. Rather than futz around in front of the crowd I decided to wing it. I had to do my address from memory.

There were three local family members, two sisters and a brother, sitting in the front row and thinking of me the whole time. They were quite surprised later when I told them I could not read my notes. I fooled everyone. In fact, they said they were impressed that I only occasionally glanced at the screen and then spoke at length. In fact, I was glancing at the very blurry screen in order to buy some time to think of what I was to say next!

There were problems with the translators. (Some I could tell were happening at the time while other things were explained to me later.) There was some humor that should have been easy to get across but was completely flat when translated. There were a number of times when the translators said the opposite of what I said. Some faculty in the front row were getting agitated because they could understand enough English to know the translators got it way wrong.

The Q&A went very well. Even though sometimes I gave a detailed answer, which was then translated, “He says he not a China expert and cannot answer the question.” I do not know how much of this was poor translation, pretending to know what I said in order to save face, or deliberate misrepresentation. It really does not matter. Looking back, I realize that there were enough students there that understood my English to know what I really said. Students will discuss this among themselves.

We would have been there all night if the students were allowed to continue past 6 pm. Their questions were thoughtful and intelligent. I was able to duck political issues politely, but maintain credibility, answer honestly and professionally about a number of issues.

Bottom line: the dean was very happy, my economist sponsor was very happy (although he got a bit panicky about the translations during my talk). A number of indirect indicators show conclusively that it went well -- it wasn't just people saying good job.

I think the Asian reading of these indicators is interesting:

First, we were to have a dinner with the dean after the talk at a hotel on campus. Instead, the dean decided after the talk to take us to the best restaurant in the area.

Second, there were only nine of us at dinner (my three friends, two translators, the young economist, the dean, the assistant dean, and myself) yet the dean ordered twenty dishes (an Asian sister counted). This is over the top.

Third, my Asian sister found out the dean spent over 750 rmb for dinner (a bit less than $100). This is extremely extravagant and very way over the top. A very good dinner would only be a couple dollars per person in this land of cheap food and cheap labor.

Fourth, the dean had every intention, I later found out, to get drunk with me at dinner by having repeated toasts with a Chinese version of white lightening. Getting drunk together would signify that we had become close friends.

Fifth, he sent us home in the university’s Buick minivan. Buick is a prestige car in China and this was probably the best vehicle on campus. In Asian culture, these sorts of things are very important.

Everything turned out well. Mission accomplished. My young economist friend was very happy. His stock is on the rise. Most importantly, it was all God. There were so many things that could have, that should have, gone wrong. There was some serious intercession going on before and during my talk.

Tuesday June 27th. My last full day in China. No activities planned. No pressure to get things done for others. I can relax. A day all to myself. Well, sorta all to myself….

In the morning, I went shopping downtown with my American host and now my friend. I had a serious deficit of gifts to bring back. However, we went all over, to all kinds of shopping areas, and I could find nothing except some postcards.

I found out I had to go to a meeting that afternoon. It was basically a three-hour committee meeting. It was not so bad since we all had a debriefing of what went on at the university talk the day before. This is where I learned most of what really happened. After the meeting, I took everyone out to dinner. They wanted Western at the Tex-Mex place. A very pleasant evening.

Be blessed!
RB

some kunming pictures

Thursday, June 29, 2006

ming of ka ching

The following is a rap written by Amherst College’s Rick Griffiths, one of the participants in the CIEE’s faculty development seminar. Just to give you some background: a) Shi Ming was the organizer and leader of the seminar; b) Chinese call Europeans and Americans big noses; c) The Bai (pronounced by) are a Chinese ethnic minority; d) During a performance of traditional dance, we heard an explosion and the lights went out for about twenty minutes; and e) we often had meals at round tables with large "lazy Susans" in the middle with plates of food to share.

This may be one of those you-had-to-be-there type things in order to appreciate.

Ming of Ka Ching

Listen, kids, the feats I sing
Of mighty Ming, King of Ka Ching,

Prince of one great dynasty,
The noble house, C I E E.

With his horde of big nose scholars
Blazed a trail of US dollars.

Shang’hai to the Himalayas
Answered thousand merchant prayers.

Gave up teachers’ bookish jargon;
Spoke the global tongue of Bargain.

Swept up jade, tea, and treasure,
Weighed down luggage beyond measure.

Locals gasp; tourists scoff;
Pray that Lucky Air can still take off.

Minglings wolfed down rice and spice,
But, burned once, still ate twice.

Spin the wheel, pick a dish.
Is it duck? Is it fish?

What goes round will come back.
Is it beef? Is it yak?

Is it hot? Is it noble?
Or unpeeled and microbial?

Fear no fat, no flesh nor sodium,
At the worst, you’ve got Imodium

Locals gasp; tourists scoff;
Pray that Lucky Air can still take off.

Ming did wonders more than seven;
Let no rain fall from heaven;

Kept wild drivers on the road;
Kept the plan from overload.

Made non-stop shoppers hop
With a clap. “Chop, chop.”

Kept the pace through China’s foment;
Served up countless Kodak moments.

Showed eco- ethno- bio- diversity
With no hint of perversity

‘Cept for smirks and smiles
At the proud Bai lifestyles.

The folk are happy – no regrets,
If only they can be Rockettes:

Wave that fan, stomp those shoes,
Dance so hot, you blow a fuse.

Show goes on, no regrettin’
Even if you are Tibetan.

Wily Ming outwits the guides,
Lifts the veil on China’s other sides.

So, Chairman Ming, we bid adieu,
No place we wouldn’t go with you.


Lijiang, Yunnan, June 16, 2006

sino journal seven: return to kunming

Saturday June 17th. I hung out with a South Asian brother who is in Kunming to study Chinese. We were to go to a Muslim English Corner at the local mosque. However, with final examination time at the local universities, it was cancelled. We went on a p-walk at a couple of nearby campuses. I saw where a revival is going to break out. My partner said that the place I saw is where the local English Corner is held.

Later that morning I “taught” at a private English school that meets on Saturdays. (You can see the students here.) The class of eight-to-twelve-year olds was scheduled for two hours but I could not last an hour. They were great kids but I ran out of energy before they did. Fortunately, their regular teacher, a young American student studying Chinese, was there to bail me out. I showed them pictures of my family. The girls were all excited about pictures from last summer’s wedding last the two boys started playing by themselves.

They asked me to teach a section of adults that afternoon. However, no one showed because students were busy preparing for or taking university exams.

I was taken to lunch at a restaurant that I would not have chosen. Later that evening at the English corner at a teahouse, I became violently ill with both ends of my GI-track being quite explosive. Trying to be cool about it so few would know what was happening; I continually had to excuse myself from a conversation.

Sunday June 18th. Imodium is a wonderful thing.

I was able to share with a fellowship of maybe ten university students in the morning. Most of my message went over their heads but I had a good example, a word picture, they could relate to. I find most Chinese cannot understand my English. I use words they do not know while more experienced Westerners would know the right word that they would likely know. Chinese is also a tonal language where one of four tones used changes the meaning of a word. For example, ma can mean mother, horse, or scolding depending on how you say it. I think that if I use a different inflection with a word than what they are used to, their natural mindset is that it is a different word even though it is not different in English.

I rested in the afternoon. That evening I met with a Southeast Asian businessperson. She took me to a Western-style doughnut shop where I had English milk-tea with sugar: Just what I needed given the delicate condition of my GI-track.

This woman is into many different things. One thing she does is help local trash pickers. These are kids of folks from the countryside that migrate illegally to the city to pick trough trash to “recycle.” Since the children are not registered to be in the city, they are ineligible for schooling or any other government help. The Chinese view such charitable efforts as the responsibility of the government. However, this woman must be discrete about helping the poor so as not to cause the government to lose face. That is, if she helps then it shows the government is not doing its job and there would be a loss of face. No one does that with impunity, especially a foreigner who wants to stay in country.

A peasant in the rural area earns maybe 500 rmb per year. In the city, a trash picker can make more than 1,000 rmb per month. It makes you wonder why there is anyone left in the country. Illegal immigration to the city has become a huge “problem.” The construction boom relies on illegal immigrants as do a lot of the restaurants and other low-wage service industries. It used to be that officials would catch an immigrant and just put him on a train back to his hometown. Now there are far too many to cope with and any enforcement seems futile if not impossible. (Hmm…, doesn’t this sound familiar?)

Monday June 19th. Today I mostly hung out with a local American businessman/consultant. In the afternoon, I visited a local development on the outskirts of town, Sunshine City. When completed it will be home to about 7,000 middle to upper middle income Chinese. I went with a local who is in the process of buying a flat (i.e., apartment). Flats are sold unfinished, bare, rough concrete walls, floors, and ceilings. These flats sell for $20,000 to $30,000 depending on size and location. Good investment property with a new medical college and university branch campuses being built nearby.

Tuesday June 20th. My American friend spent the day trying to renew his visa and it took him all day. This was fine with me since I was feeling quite tired and thought I should just rest. I did drop some dirty clothes off at a laundry expecting it to ready late afternoon, all nicely ironed – even my underwear. However, when I took it back to my hotel in the evening I discovered it was not only not ironed, but also quite damp. I was of course quite indignant. However, these were good people, brothers, recommended to me, and I soon figured out it was the result of miscommunication.

In fact, it was also all my fault.

The family did not speak English and looking back at the events of the morning, I realized the young girl who took my laundry was pointing at a calendar trying to tell me to pick it up the next day. However, I did not get it at the time. She also compounded the error by making the dangerous assumption that I wasn’t stupid. I tried to communicate that I wanted it by 6 p.m. by writing “18:00” down on a piece of paper and pointing to my watch. I think she understood that but probably assumed that since I was not stupid, I must have meant 6 p.m. the next day. Therefore, when I came back that same evening she quickly went into a back room, folded up my damp clothes, and put them in a bag so as not to disappoint me. She also charged me much less than I expected. I wonder why? Duhhh!

It all worked out. I hung the damp clothes in my hotel room’s bath. They were dry by morning with no harm done.

Wednesday June 21st. Today a group of us went to visit a Hui village a few hours from Kunming. The Hui (pronounced way) are a minority group that are basically Han Chinese but Muslim. The Han Chinese majority looks them down upon and even Christian Han want nothing to do with the Hui. Of course, the Muslims of are resentful of all this. We were going to a village that is the hometown of a Hui man in our group. He is interested in studying the Bible and bridging the gap between Christians and Muslims.

On the way to and from the village, we traveled on very good highways and we saw prosperous farms growing vegetables, tobacco, and flowers. Much of the farming seemed to take place under what looked like Quonset huts made of plastic sheeting. The road we were on supposedly went all the way to Singapore, and vegetables are shipped there. (Although, I understand the part of the road through Laos is a bit sketchy.)

The village was actually more like a small city and was about 80% Hui. It is also home to a recently built, and currently the largest, mosque in China. There is also a large 400-to-500 year-old mosque, ornately decorated in a very Chinese fashion.

The imam was unavailable but a teacher-scholar gave us a tour to the village and mosques. We then had a very lengthy and good discussion. The teacher-scholar basically asked me, the oldest, to give my testimony. Others did so as well. The teacher also shared how he came to be a follower and scholar of Islam. It was very nice to have a frank, open, and still pleasant conversation.

A Muslim teacher also asked why Bush was reelected. Muslims just cannot fathom how or why that happened. I explained that U.S. voters, like most voters around the world are primarily interested in domestic not foreign issues. Another American noted that Bush was different from his opponent in that Bush, like Muslims, is opposed to abortion.

Later that evening I went to another English corner then stayed up late to catch up on my emails.

Be blessed!
RB