Thursday, June 29, 2006

ming of ka ching

The following is a rap written by Amherst College’s Rick Griffiths, one of the participants in the CIEE’s faculty development seminar. Just to give you some background: a) Shi Ming was the organizer and leader of the seminar; b) Chinese call Europeans and Americans big noses; c) The Bai (pronounced by) are a Chinese ethnic minority; d) During a performance of traditional dance, we heard an explosion and the lights went out for about twenty minutes; and e) we often had meals at round tables with large "lazy Susans" in the middle with plates of food to share.

This may be one of those you-had-to-be-there type things in order to appreciate.

Ming of Ka Ching

Listen, kids, the feats I sing
Of mighty Ming, King of Ka Ching,

Prince of one great dynasty,
The noble house, C I E E.

With his horde of big nose scholars
Blazed a trail of US dollars.

Shang’hai to the Himalayas
Answered thousand merchant prayers.

Gave up teachers’ bookish jargon;
Spoke the global tongue of Bargain.

Swept up jade, tea, and treasure,
Weighed down luggage beyond measure.

Locals gasp; tourists scoff;
Pray that Lucky Air can still take off.

Minglings wolfed down rice and spice,
But, burned once, still ate twice.

Spin the wheel, pick a dish.
Is it duck? Is it fish?

What goes round will come back.
Is it beef? Is it yak?

Is it hot? Is it noble?
Or unpeeled and microbial?

Fear no fat, no flesh nor sodium,
At the worst, you’ve got Imodium

Locals gasp; tourists scoff;
Pray that Lucky Air can still take off.

Ming did wonders more than seven;
Let no rain fall from heaven;

Kept wild drivers on the road;
Kept the plan from overload.

Made non-stop shoppers hop
With a clap. “Chop, chop.”

Kept the pace through China’s foment;
Served up countless Kodak moments.

Showed eco- ethno- bio- diversity
With no hint of perversity

‘Cept for smirks and smiles
At the proud Bai lifestyles.

The folk are happy – no regrets,
If only they can be Rockettes:

Wave that fan, stomp those shoes,
Dance so hot, you blow a fuse.

Show goes on, no regrettin’
Even if you are Tibetan.

Wily Ming outwits the guides,
Lifts the veil on China’s other sides.

So, Chairman Ming, we bid adieu,
No place we wouldn’t go with you.


Lijiang, Yunnan, June 16, 2006

sino journal seven: return to kunming

Saturday June 17th. I hung out with a South Asian brother who is in Kunming to study Chinese. We were to go to a Muslim English Corner at the local mosque. However, with final examination time at the local universities, it was cancelled. We went on a p-walk at a couple of nearby campuses. I saw where a revival is going to break out. My partner said that the place I saw is where the local English Corner is held.

Later that morning I “taught” at a private English school that meets on Saturdays. (You can see the students here.) The class of eight-to-twelve-year olds was scheduled for two hours but I could not last an hour. They were great kids but I ran out of energy before they did. Fortunately, their regular teacher, a young American student studying Chinese, was there to bail me out. I showed them pictures of my family. The girls were all excited about pictures from last summer’s wedding last the two boys started playing by themselves.

They asked me to teach a section of adults that afternoon. However, no one showed because students were busy preparing for or taking university exams.

I was taken to lunch at a restaurant that I would not have chosen. Later that evening at the English corner at a teahouse, I became violently ill with both ends of my GI-track being quite explosive. Trying to be cool about it so few would know what was happening; I continually had to excuse myself from a conversation.

Sunday June 18th. Imodium is a wonderful thing.

I was able to share with a fellowship of maybe ten university students in the morning. Most of my message went over their heads but I had a good example, a word picture, they could relate to. I find most Chinese cannot understand my English. I use words they do not know while more experienced Westerners would know the right word that they would likely know. Chinese is also a tonal language where one of four tones used changes the meaning of a word. For example, ma can mean mother, horse, or scolding depending on how you say it. I think that if I use a different inflection with a word than what they are used to, their natural mindset is that it is a different word even though it is not different in English.

I rested in the afternoon. That evening I met with a Southeast Asian businessperson. She took me to a Western-style doughnut shop where I had English milk-tea with sugar: Just what I needed given the delicate condition of my GI-track.

This woman is into many different things. One thing she does is help local trash pickers. These are kids of folks from the countryside that migrate illegally to the city to pick trough trash to “recycle.” Since the children are not registered to be in the city, they are ineligible for schooling or any other government help. The Chinese view such charitable efforts as the responsibility of the government. However, this woman must be discrete about helping the poor so as not to cause the government to lose face. That is, if she helps then it shows the government is not doing its job and there would be a loss of face. No one does that with impunity, especially a foreigner who wants to stay in country.

A peasant in the rural area earns maybe 500 rmb per year. In the city, a trash picker can make more than 1,000 rmb per month. It makes you wonder why there is anyone left in the country. Illegal immigration to the city has become a huge “problem.” The construction boom relies on illegal immigrants as do a lot of the restaurants and other low-wage service industries. It used to be that officials would catch an immigrant and just put him on a train back to his hometown. Now there are far too many to cope with and any enforcement seems futile if not impossible. (Hmm…, doesn’t this sound familiar?)

Monday June 19th. Today I mostly hung out with a local American businessman/consultant. In the afternoon, I visited a local development on the outskirts of town, Sunshine City. When completed it will be home to about 7,000 middle to upper middle income Chinese. I went with a local who is in the process of buying a flat (i.e., apartment). Flats are sold unfinished, bare, rough concrete walls, floors, and ceilings. These flats sell for $20,000 to $30,000 depending on size and location. Good investment property with a new medical college and university branch campuses being built nearby.

Tuesday June 20th. My American friend spent the day trying to renew his visa and it took him all day. This was fine with me since I was feeling quite tired and thought I should just rest. I did drop some dirty clothes off at a laundry expecting it to ready late afternoon, all nicely ironed – even my underwear. However, when I took it back to my hotel in the evening I discovered it was not only not ironed, but also quite damp. I was of course quite indignant. However, these were good people, brothers, recommended to me, and I soon figured out it was the result of miscommunication.

In fact, it was also all my fault.

The family did not speak English and looking back at the events of the morning, I realized the young girl who took my laundry was pointing at a calendar trying to tell me to pick it up the next day. However, I did not get it at the time. She also compounded the error by making the dangerous assumption that I wasn’t stupid. I tried to communicate that I wanted it by 6 p.m. by writing “18:00” down on a piece of paper and pointing to my watch. I think she understood that but probably assumed that since I was not stupid, I must have meant 6 p.m. the next day. Therefore, when I came back that same evening she quickly went into a back room, folded up my damp clothes, and put them in a bag so as not to disappoint me. She also charged me much less than I expected. I wonder why? Duhhh!

It all worked out. I hung the damp clothes in my hotel room’s bath. They were dry by morning with no harm done.

Wednesday June 21st. Today a group of us went to visit a Hui village a few hours from Kunming. The Hui (pronounced way) are a minority group that are basically Han Chinese but Muslim. The Han Chinese majority looks them down upon and even Christian Han want nothing to do with the Hui. Of course, the Muslims of are resentful of all this. We were going to a village that is the hometown of a Hui man in our group. He is interested in studying the Bible and bridging the gap between Christians and Muslims.

On the way to and from the village, we traveled on very good highways and we saw prosperous farms growing vegetables, tobacco, and flowers. Much of the farming seemed to take place under what looked like Quonset huts made of plastic sheeting. The road we were on supposedly went all the way to Singapore, and vegetables are shipped there. (Although, I understand the part of the road through Laos is a bit sketchy.)

The village was actually more like a small city and was about 80% Hui. It is also home to a recently built, and currently the largest, mosque in China. There is also a large 400-to-500 year-old mosque, ornately decorated in a very Chinese fashion.

The imam was unavailable but a teacher-scholar gave us a tour to the village and mosques. We then had a very lengthy and good discussion. The teacher-scholar basically asked me, the oldest, to give my testimony. Others did so as well. The teacher also shared how he came to be a follower and scholar of Islam. It was very nice to have a frank, open, and still pleasant conversation.

A Muslim teacher also asked why Bush was reelected. Muslims just cannot fathom how or why that happened. I explained that U.S. voters, like most voters around the world are primarily interested in domestic not foreign issues. Another American noted that Bush was different from his opponent in that Bush, like Muslims, is opposed to abortion.

Later that evening I went to another English corner then stayed up late to catch up on my emails.

Be blessed!
RB

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

lijiang and tiger leaping gorge pictures

correction -- inebriated fish -- correction

The judges made a mistake as to the winner of the translate inebriated fish contest.

The new winner is Stephanie!

Apparently a Shanghai traditional food is to get fish drunk, then eat 'em.

In Shanghai they serve drunk fish, drunk turtle, drunk crab, and drunk sparrow. Often these sauced entrees are eaten alive. There are some some concerns voiced by animal rights activists. On the other hand, if the critters are really drunk, they might not feel a thing.


Friday, June 16, 2006

sino journal six

Wednesday June 14th. We left Dali at 9 a.m. for a three-hour bus ride north to Lijiang. The day was sunny and the mountains were gorgeous. We even saw Chinese military maneuvers along the way. One of fellow travelers even got a picture from the bus window of some tanks. As most roads through mountains the shoulders were quite narrow but what surprised us was that there were workers sweeping the sides of the roads out in the middle of nowhere.

Lijiang is a major tourist center, which, like Dali, has a new and an old section. Ten years ago an earthquake destroyed New Lijiang but the abutting Old Lijiang with its traditional architecture survived the quake intact. The old town is pedestrian with winding narrow streets and streams and small bridges everywhere. It is like Old Dali in that there are shops everywhere, but here the buildings are obviously much older. With the streams and trees, Lijiang seems even more peaceful.

We had to walk into the hotel from a main street and our bags were taken by a mini-minivan –about half the width and half the length of a minivan. Being in old town, the hotel was of traditional architecture and the rooms were smaller. However, I thought it was lovelier with the old courtyards.

In the afternoon, we went to the U.S. NGO (nongovernmental organization), The Nature Conservatory. It is in a traditional house with courtyard. They try to work with the Chinese governments to preserve the scenic and environmental important areas surrounding Lijiang.

Thursday June 15th was the highlight of the trip so far. Steve Robinson (SLU geology department), another economist, and I arranged to hire a car and driver and travel to Tiger Leaping Gorge. We drove through the mountains past some wonderfully lovely countryside. We crossed the upper Yangtze River a couple of times before we came to the gorge. We then walked about a mile on a level path carved out of the mountainside. The path is carved out of solid marble and the paving stones were rough marble. At the end of the path were some magnificent and huge rapids where the mountains force the Yangtze through a narrow channel. We were at 6,000-plus feet and the steeply rising mountain on our side went up to over 16,000 feet.

These mountains are more spectacular than the Rockies if only because these are much, much steeper. It is hard to get this across in either words or photographs.

That evening we went to a “cultural” show, Mountains-Rivers Show at a large modern theater at the International Ethnic Cultural Exchange Center. High production values, more like a big Broadway production with stylized costumes and choreographed dancing.

Friday morning June 16th we had a debriefing talking about what worked and what did not. The consensus was that we did as much as we could in twelve days. The director, Shi Ming, was educated in the USA, a bit Americanized but that meant that he understood and could read our needs, desires, and wishes very well.

I mentioned in an earlier post that there was a woman who had lived in SW China 18 years ago. I asked how she was doing emotionally. She said fine and that while everything had changed she was very happy for the Chinese people. Before people were so desperately poor whereas now she sees people have enough to eat. 18 years ago, she never heard people laughing and singing as we have heard.

The rest of the group has left for their flight back to Shanghai. I left a few minutes after the others on a Shanghai Airlines flight to Kunming. At the Kunming airport, I noticed an Iranian military cargo plane parked on the tarmac. (It looked like a C-130.) A friend of Joshua’s took me to a very nice three-star hotel. Much nicer than what I would have picked for my self. They have stuff planned for me the next five days, so I will be busy until I leave for Chengdu on Thursday.

Tonight, I will explore the neighborhood. This area was the terminus of WWII’s famous Burma Road. The international cafĂ© I went to last weekend is a 10-minute walk away and the Muslim section of town is also nearby.

The CIEE faculty development seminar is now over. I must say that although I have not made very many trips abroad, this one is the most wonderful trip I have ever had.

I may not be able to communicate as often until I return to Canton on June 29th.

Be blessed!
RB

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

sino journal five

Monday June 12th was a fairly easy day. In the morning, we went to the walled city of Old Dali. Dali is located at 6500 ft. between a mountain range and a large (20x6 mile) lake. It is right up against the mountains like Colorado Springs only these mountains are greener. VERY NICE. The buildings and streets are fairly new or recently rebuilt. Old style architecture, nice shops. Many streets are pedestrian only and made of granite blocks. Everything is landscaped perfectly. They have streams running channeled down the side of the streets. Very peaceful. Very soothing. This is like the nicest section of Lake Placid times 100. Perfect for the American Yuppie tourist and/or the occasional academic.

In the afternoon, we went on a boat ride across Lake Erhei to a poor fishing village. Not very remarkable for me since I have seen a lot worse in Africa and India.

Pictures of Dali

Our local tour guide is interesting. They paid her extra so she would not take us to tourist traps in order to get a cut of the sales. She told us yesterday that she would help us shop so we would not be cheated when we went into Old Dali. With her, some people paid from five to ten times as much as people did who bargained on their own. She told one woman that a piece was 99% silver when it was obviously silver plate.

Tuesday June 13th we went to a morning market in an ethnic Bai village. It was a real market and not a tourist spot. We also went to a tea ceremony that was extremely touristy. In the afternoon, we attended a lecture on the Bai people. This evening was free and we walked into the old city to eat. Very nice dinner and drinks for about $3. It was cool and breezy like the best of North Country evenings.

I went into an IP shop (internet phone) and called home. I was pretty tired and out of it. The owner spoke no English and wrote down the charge. I read rmb 264 and gave him three one-hundred bills. He waved me off then I realized it was rmb 26.4. He could have taken me and I would have never known. He obviously is not used to dealing with tourists. Those who are will rip you without hesitation.

Walked home and bought an ice cream or rather a fudge bar: rmb 1 or 12.5 cents.

I could get to like it here. It is so peaceful as well as user friendly to Westerners. The local university has a Mandarin immersion course. With tuition lodging, and food expenses it would cost less than $2000 per semester. Hmmmm.

I am the most quoted member of the group today. At a market, some people were buying smoking pipes and other artifacts that were obviously newly manufactured. The seller said it was from the Ching dynasty and I responded, “No, it is from the Ka-Ching Dynasty.”

We all agreed that the Ka-Ching Dynasty now rules China.

I asked a woman in our group who spoke a little Mandarin whether she overhead Chinese talking about us. She said yes but that most of the comments were about my height. I guess I am a couple or more standard deviations from the mean, height-wise.

Be blessed!
RB

Monday, June 12, 2006

sino journal follow-up

I wrote about visiting the late Chairman Mao in an earlier post. Just before you enter the building, people get out of line to buy flowers from a stand, go before a large marble statue of Mao inside the building, lay the roses down against hundreds of other bunches of roses, do a little honor/worship thing, and then get back in line. A colleague who had been there on a previous trip to Beijing said that every once in awhile workers will collect a large quantity of flowers previously presented to the statue, take them back to the stand, and resell them.

I wonder if the worshipers of Mao knew they were merely renting the flowers and not buying them?

I found out a bit more about Lucky Airlines mentioned in my most recent sino journal. This is a privately owned airline that flies to a few cities in China. The airline has only one plane, an aging Boeing 737, to fly to all its cities. I guess they have to be lucky. They have no backup if something goes wrong with the plane.

Be blessed!
RB

china pictures

I uploaded some pictures to webshots page #2. They are kind of random:

Sunday, June 11, 2006

inebriated fish

Susan wins. Inebriated fish meant pickled fish. I trust you can see how that mistake could have been made.

sino journal four

Hello from Monday June 12th.

Saturday June 10th was a bit of a waste in terms of the faculty development seminar. We spent from 8:30 a.m. until 5 p.m. traveling until we checked into a five-star hotel, the best in the city of Kunming. It is nice but a little excessive.

We had the evening off so I contacted another friend of Joshua’s and spent the evening with him. (It looks like the plans for my twelve-day extension are shaping up.) We went to an international coffee house he helps run and had dinner – a delicious Malaysian dish. I then visited his apartment and met his family. We then went to a teahouse for an “English Corner” where people go to practice their spoken English. I really had a lot of fun just visiting with people.

I brought a little photo album along with pictures of my family. (Of course, almost half of the photos are of the lovely and most beautiful Miss Lois.) This led to a real ego boost. People were shocked that someone as young as Mr. Robert could be a grandfather. One asked me how old I was and still could not believe it when I told them. I showed a picture of Sue and they were amazed that someone her age could look so young.

SUE, PLEASE DO NOT READ THE FOLLOWING PARAGRAPH.
A lovely young women in her twenties exclaimed after seeing the picture of Sue, “She looks younger than me!” I assured the young lady that I had seen both and that she was definitely younger looking. Of course, I was merely being kind and diplomatic to the poor thing. (Did you really think Sue would skip over this section?)
THANK YOU SUE. YOU CAN BEGIN READING AGAIN.

My three sons are handsome and my three daughters are so beautiful. I had a picture of from K&K’s wedding where Kelly is standing up in the jeep in her wedding dress and wearing sunglasses. One young woman commented that it looked like something from a Hollywood movie.

Therefore, thanks to my photogenic family, I am quite a hit in this part of Yunnan Province.

Sunday June 11th was a long day. We went to the University of Yunnan and visited an absolutely outstanding and beautiful museum. It was thoroughly modern but still had a Chinese feeling. We then had two lectures on minority groups in SW China and then toured the campus. This university is even more beautiful than the one in Emei. We had a couple of hours free in the afternoon to wonder in part of a city, had dinner, and then a 10 p.m. flight to Dali.

I made the mistake of having laundry done in a 5-star hotel. I am used to everything being so cheap that I did not calculate the cost. For a half dozen pairs of socks, half dozen pairs of underwear, two shirts and a pair of khakis, the bill came to about $40. I could have bought the clothes here for that much.

Out flight to Dali from Kunming took only 40 minutes or so. This airport is so small that it closed before we had the bus loaded. I kid you not, we flew on Lucky Airline. This did not inspire confidence in my colleagues. Neither did the music we heard as we found our seats on the plane. I do not know the name of the song but it was from the movie Titanic. I am sure CIEE got a great fare.

We just got into the hotel in Dali. This is the nicest hotel yet, 5-star too, and has free internet where I can use SLU’s Virtual Private Network (VPN). This means no monitoring of my emails and activity in China. Plus, I can go the BBC and other websites for uncensored news (PRC blocks access western news sites). We will be here until Wednesday morning.

The director of the trip is letting us sleep in on Monday June 12th. Everyone is pretty wiped out.

Be blessed!
RB